One thing I respect about the R&A is that they don't doctor a course the way the USGA does for the US Open. The Open courses are almost always in their natural state. Sure, they pushed the tee back on 17 and I ahve no problem with that. But they don't make the rough artificially long or the fairways extra narrow. One really gets an appreciation for what the course was like many years ago.
I'm probably in the minority here, but I love the double greens. Makes for a unique challenge both on approach shots and when putting.
No, it's not a terribly difficult course when the weather is good. Didn't Woods shoot like 19-under when he won in 2000? But there's no other course in the world really like it.