I live in Raleigh and spend half my week working in Durham so I can chip in some on what’s there now. There is a lot of really good food downtown, and if you don’t mind driving, there are some excellent places in downtown Raleigh and in Chapel Hill.
I’m not wild about Cookout. Plus, it’s all over the place now in NC, SC and VA. If you don’t get to it while you’re in Durham, it’s not like you’re missing a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. They serve a cheap, decent burger.
Durham has an interesting food truck scene. Here’s a tweet aggregator: http://finddurhamfoodtrucks.com/. Usually you can find out via Twitter where they are or where they’re going to be.
Some places I like downtown…
Bull City Burger and Brewery—a lot of variety, burger- and beer-wise; best burger I’ve had in the last year
Toast—sandwich shop downtown; they put a lot of thought into the food, and it shows; the portabello Panini is awesome
Geer Street Garden—a nice, comfortable place; a block from the old Durham Bulls stadium, where Bull Durham was filmed
A couple of places that come highly recommended that I haven’t made it to…
Fullsteam Brewery—not sure about food, but they do beer, of course
Watt’s Grocery—I got a gift certificate for my brother in law for Christmas and this is where my Durham foodie friends recommended; it’s expensive
Definitely hit the Durham Bulls, if they’re in town. You’ll love what they’ve done with the warehouses across the street from the stadium. There are restaurants and bars, for pre- or post-game.
A warning, though… map out where you’re going before you go. Durham is on the rise, but it has some rough spots, and it’s easy to make a wrong turn downtown and end up on some really sketchy streets.