The role of a food critic

Like Alma, I'm a little torn by this. I think Pete Wells is a very, very talented writer and food critic. And this was a nuanced stand, one he put a little thought into.

On the other hand, the mere fact that he wrote 1,000 words about that stand smacks a little bit of "look at me." Self-serving, if you will.

On another tangent, I would suspect that this place gives you the size of servings that make you long to stop at a fast-food joint on the way home. That's what I despise about "nouveaux cuisine."

 

Maybe Pete wrote it as a passive aggressive way of critiquing other critics who splurged to go.

 

One thing I like about Wells is he appears committed to actually reviewing the food, and deciding what he thinks of a place based on what it actually delivers.

 

I guess I misunderstand the purpose of a food critic. I always assumed that they were reporting back on restaurants so that I could decide whether I wanted to eat there or not. Reviewing something I cannot possibly try seems unnecessary.

 

The major food critics like Wells have cult followings. In some ways, they've become bigger than the food itself.

 

I like a good review, even if I cannot experience the thing that is being reviewed. Good criticism can help its readers evaluate the options that are available to them. Let's say Wells went to Noma's temporary restaurant. You didn't go, but Wells gave you an expert's account of how the restaurant delivered or failed on its many promises. He gives you a framework on how to evaluate a place and whether it is what it claims to be, he leads you to take in details you may have otherwise missed, and he does it with a enjoyable narrative.

 

That should be part of the review. The writer could offer: "After a fine $600 meal at Chez Quis that doesn't leave you completely full, be sure to hit the Burger King drive-thru for a Whopper and some onion rings to conclude your dining experience."

 

I'd love to see a top-of-the-line food critic write that.

 

Not sure where it is, but one of the epic threads here involves a smalltown restaurant reviewer offering her thoughts on the town's new Olive Garden.

 

When you are down around Frederick, you should try one of Bryan Voltaggio's restaurants. Decent sized portions from an amazing chef.

 

I checked out the menus for his places. They look amazing.

 

Which, in a small town, is probably more appreciated than most of the stuff in the paper.